Hey everyone thanks for visiting my blog, today I’m continuing with the demo of my basement bathroom renovation
Today I removed the ceiling in the bathroom which was brutal, the previous owners used a mix of finishing nails, drywall screws and drywall nails to secure the wood paneling and drywall underneath the joists of the floor. It took in total 45 min just to remove all the material and than go bakc and remove the 100’s of nails that they used. This was definitely a home owner DIY bathroom renovation job because the bathroom exhaust fan was just placed on top of the drywall without being secured, this gave me a pretty good scare when it came crashing down after removing the drywall. This is why I prefer a drop ceiling apposed to drywall because a homeowner can access everything above and nothing can be hidden from new homeowners when they buy a house.
Next on the list of things to was to break open the concrete to relocate the drainage lines for the toilet and sink. This was accomplished by using a Bosch hammer drill and in about 4 hours i was able to complete the demolition of the concrete exposing the plumbing, the weeping tile piping and the water service pipe. The reason i made such a big trench was to move the toilet and sink two feet back and to locate the start of the branch piping to install a backwater valve to protect my bathroom and floor drain (this is a extremely good idea it prevent the backup of ground water and sewage being able to come in the house).
After everything was uncovered I installed the backwater valve at the beginning of the branch than cut the toilet trap arm and extended it to its new location. Once the toilet arm was at the proper location i installed the 90 deg fitting and added a tall enough piece that was higher than concrete. When I’m close to being ready for the concrete i’ll set my toilet flange to the proper level.
What really amazed me was that the previous owners were such intense smokers in the house that when i had broken the concrete it was like someone was smoking right beside me, the smell had made its way into the concrete under the bathroom floor.
Now before I could run my sink drainage line to the new location I had to build my plumbing wall so I knew the exact location to run my pipe. I started this by taking multiple measurements from different walls. This insured i was getting the best possible measurements because i didn’t know which walls are straight, you would hope they would be but in most homes there are always flaws. Once i got the wall square I marked it out on the floor and cut the 2×4 to the appropriate length. I used a concrete bit and screws to anchor the bottom plate to the floor. Once the bottom plate was secure i could transfer the measurements to the floor joists and secure my top plate of the wall using wood screws.
With the top plate/bottom plate measured and installed, i started to install the studs 16″ on center in between the top and bottom plates. I measured out the length needed between the top/bottom plate and cut the studs to the require length. When doing this measure each stud accordingly because the floor isn’t going to level and your studs could be different lengths. Than using a four foot level i put the studs in place, leveling them and screwing them into place.
Once the plumbing wall was fully constructed i measured out where my holes had to be for my plumbing, this included the stub up coming from the plumbing from the ground, the laundry drain and the lav trap arm. Having the holes marked i proceeded to cut them out using a 2 inch hole saw, for the stub up, the laundry and switched to 1 1/2 hole saw for the lav drain. I cut out the original plumbing, added a coupling and extended it to the new wall. Using 2-45 deg fittings i attached the stub up pipe through the bottom plate, I plumbed in the 2 inch tee wye for the new laundry drain and a 2″ x 2″ x 1 1/2″ x 1 1/2″ double tee wye for the the bathroom lav and the future Laundry sink.
Once my drainage plumbing was plumbed for my Laundry, Lav and my future laundry sink, I cut the vent above the ceiling height that i measured, I plan on installing a drop ceiling in the bathroom so that gives me a good amount of room to run my mechanical such as plumbing and electrical. Once i cut my vent I added a 2″ x 1 1/2 inch reducer to my 2″ tee wye and than stubbed up my 1 1/2 vent to the required height. Using to 1 1/2″ 90 deg fittings I attached my new vent to my original vent.
Time to finish off my drainage project! I wanted to add in a new Laundry drain because the original drain was installed using 1 1/2″ pipe which would back up the suds from the new washing machine i bought. I mounted the new laundry box as per manufacturing instructions. I set the box 36″ above the finished floor to the bottom of the box and secured it using drywall screws. I drilled through the studs using the 2 1/4″ cup saw to accommodate the new 2″ pipe than I connected the 2″ pipe to my 2″ tee wye, installed my 2″ trap and connected my vertical drain to the laundry box. This was the exciting part I finally got to run the washing machine, I ran it throught multiple cycles till i was completely satisfied that the plumbing was good.
For my waterlines I used 1/2″ pex piping and fittings, I drained my waterline system by turning off the supply at the meter, turning my hot water tank on vacation (this is prevent it from heating if too much water in drained) and draining the entire system at the lowest point. Luckily i had two existing lines coming off my cold/hot which were capped off, this made it easy since i was able to cut of the caps using pipe cuttings and solder on 1/2″ copper x 1/2″ pex adapters. Than I installed a small piece of pex pipe on each line, installed 2 new 1/2″ pex ball shut off valves for the bathroom and turned the water back on. Now I could continue running the new pex lines down to my fixtures which included hot/cold for my Bathroom Lav, hot/cold for my future laundry sink, hot/cold for my laundry box and a cold line going to my toilet. After this I capped all the lines and turned on the water, this was to test the new lines for any leaks (usually 12 hours without a leak means you are safe).
Finally my plumbing was complete, this was the most challenging task so far but possible for any DIY home owner. You just have to do the proper research and plan it out making the job go smoothly!